At Dior, the rose is a thing. At the brand’s Parisian ateliers, the flowering plant – petals, stems, thorns, scent and all – has long inspired creation, from ready-to-wear to perfumery. This is founded in the house’s biography: alongside lily of the valley, the rose ranked among the favourite flowers of Christian Dior.
Remembering the rose bushes his mother had cultivated at the Dior family home, the Villa les Rhumbs in Granville, Normandy, he eventually planted his own, first near Fontainebleau, before heading further south, to the Chateau de La Colle Noire near Grasse. And back in Paris, the rose became an emblematic motif in his fashion designs.
Victoire de Castellane has returned to the rose time and again in her two decades-plus role as artistic director of Dior Joaillerie. “I like to imagine the rose from A to Z,” she writes in an email from Paris. “And make it evolve.”
Dior Rose, her latest high jewellery collection, marks the designer’s largest effort to date at 116 pieces. It was first presented at a recent special event in Chengdu, China by models outfitted in pleated gowns designed for the occasion by creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. In its floral theme, the collection follows this spring’s Rose Dior creations, de Castellane’s figurative study of the plant’s life cycle from first blossoming to single shed petal. This time she adds a fantastical twist, imagining what has been billed as her Planet Dior, a world where wondrous flowers thrive and at the centre, sits the rose.